Mayhem

Soul Train night had already started by the time we arrived at the campsite, a few kilometres outside of Fethiye, and the warden made it very clear that we were not invited. ‘This English party,’ he told us. ‘English only.’ ‘Oh,’ we said, laughing for a moment. ‘But we are English!’ Nevertheless, we were instructed to watch from the sidelines, if at all. So we set up our tent and settled in.

After they had finished their set the performers, too, retreated to the wings. DJ Bubbles took over, and a sea of middle-aged, middle income Eng-ur-landers took to, and murdered, the dance floor. Moving to the lyrics, not the beat, white folks getting down to Black music. And, curiously, the band themselves put elbows and knees to work only much later, when the Bee Jees were playing, or Average White Band, or Dusty. 

We started thinking cynically about what it might be like to be the only Black people at a Black music event – the band was from South Africa – and to be the entertainment and see all the old folks dancing in their particular, peculiar, unbearably white British way.

Shirtless lads were stalking girls, encircling them without actually making eye contact until, oh yes, one of them looked and the girl looked back and suddenly they were twirling each other in a bizarre performance of Ironically Pretending To Flirt and in so doing were really engaging in that most modern form of courtship. 

Terry, part troll, had unwittingly built up a substantial live following with his devout hips and incongruously girthy legs. Like tree trunks swaying in a breeze. 40 years young and feeling reborn, a telecoms marketer and would-be stock broker, he had corralled some of his fellow boogiers into a corner and was demonstrating the Funky Chicken and Mashed Potato, knowing corporeally if not consciously that above all, white people – in a general sense – need a formula in order to move to music. Dancing doesn’t come easy, until it does. Alcohol runs in our veins.

In the thick of it Suzanne, real name Susan, was busy curling her body into shapes the kind of which her workmates in Woking wouldn’t even dare dream. A dervish or whirligig losing items of clothing by the minute. 

Dangerously close, and more than a little aroused, was Simon, a competitive long distance runner in his youth who by his early 30s had become obsessed with designing weapons for his perpetually embryonic MMORPG, Guild Of Wizards, which was as much a way of putting all his erotic fantasies in one place as it was an earnest attempt at making a video game. He’s in IT, in real life.

But in the here and now he was Lord of the Dance. He flailed his arms in wild satisfaction, sending vast arcs into the (little) space around him, sine and cosine waves emanating violently from his fists. If only his father could see him now. That would show him. You see me, father? he was thinking. You see the multitudes I contain?

It was around this time that the foam cannon made its entrance, a massive thing dutifully trundled out by a couple of stagehands already tired – just two weeks into the season – of cleaning up after these monumental exhibitions of Britishness. Was this really the same culture that produced Downton Abbey, Jane Austen and the Brontë sisters? Eric Blair and Nigella Lawson? Yes.

As soon as they engaged the motor, relentless torrents of froth burst from its deep black nozzle. Suds flew forth and multiplied in the warm midnight air, showering the pink-faced revellers with its feather-light ooze. We entered the fray, here, confident we could blend in and evade capture by the warden (we hadn’t been officially granted entrance, even though we were technically eligible, on account of our passports; the warden was a fierce man with no teeth).

The beat thrummed on: it was ‘Rhythm Of The Night’, and we were moving to it, letting it guide us, sliding out feet through and between Alrights and Oh yeahs, but within seconds we felt hands on our sides, fingers grasping our wrists. Two passerine ladies, twin sisters, Leanne and Lorna, wanted very much for us to join them in the epicentre of the action, and wouldn’t take no for an answer – didn’t even ask – where the dividing line between foam, friend and foe had broken down so completely that one was indistinguishable from the others. 

Elbows in our ribs. We were hauled, and travelled inwards. Boots, staggering; turbans made crassly of bubbles; foam chefs’ hats and fezzes adorning the drunkest people on Earth. The madness shook us with its noise, Dexy’s Midnight Runners yelling come on Eileen and a woman actually called Eileen ripping her red blouse asunder, men called Tony and Gary and possibly Carl instinctively funneling suds onto her bare breasts with expressions unlike I’d ever seen, sombre somehow, but also hysterical and wide-eyed. 

Somebody was yelling into my ear, “‘Girl I Wanna Make You Sweat’ is a very good song, a very good song,” and we were both agreeing, nodding our heads uncontrollably in time with the beat. We were being swept along. The maddening train was pumping out black smoke and people were falling over, only to be replaced by others, soap-saturated, from the flanks, each drunker than the last, many of them gargling and piss-wet.

Someone popped a bottle of cheap bubbly – the sound alone was enough to cause ripples in the crowd – and was furiously shaking it in time with doo raa doo raaii yaaaay while its off-yellow fizz exploded into the sky and mingled with the foam that rained endlessly from above.

When it was empty, the man wielding the bottle – his name was probably Ronald – looked up for a second. He cast his gaze like a fishing line into the surrounding mêlée but didn’t establish eye contact with anyone, which was a pity as it might’ve sobered him up just enough to prevent what happened next.

Ronald, mouse-brown hair thinning on top, pupils wide as saucepans, lobbed that bottle high. It soared heavenwards, and he forgot it existed. Having reached the apex of its curve, however, and very much still in existence, the bottle began to fall. Second by second it picked up speed, so that when at last it landed just west of the crown of DJ Bubbles, who had been faithfully providing sonic intoxication and was in fact nearing the end of her final set, it was travelling fast enough to knock her immediately unconscious, and draw considerable amounts of blood.

She keeled over and fell, backwards off the wooden platform erected earlier that day by two stagehands, onto the cool green grass. It beckoned her and saved her. She sighed silently and slept for a good while.

Meanwhile, mayhem. Terry had taken off his trousers and was waving them like a windmill in the air, sending soapsuds flying. Leanne and Lorna were beating the shit out of Ronald for maiming the disc jockey and thereby terminating the evening early – although fortunately, or unfortunately, she’d already made the transition from ‘Come On Eileen’ to Blue Boy’s ‘Remember Me’, 7-inch edit, giving the candle 3 minutes and 49 seconds more in which to burn burn burn.

It had taken just one of those for Simon and Suzanne to lock eyes, dive surreptitiously under the thigh-high blanket of bubbles, and commence foreplay. 60 seconds later, half the congregation had passed out on the floor and were completely concealed under the foam. By the time Marlena Shaw was getting to her second or third round of ging-gi-gi-gi-gi-ging-gi-gi-gings, we had slipped out from underneath that salty, slimy tarpaulin and into the safety of the sea, to wash off the evidence.

I don’t know what happened to the stagehands after that. They wheeled their cannon away and were never seen again, as far as I can tell. The band took DJ Bubbles away on a makeshift stretcher and sang to her until she came to. She couldn’t remember anything from the night’s proceedings, which is probably for the best. We slept fitfully, waking whenever one of the cleaners slipped over on the bubble-soaked ground and flung curses at the warden.

By 8 o’clock in the morning it was 35 degrees. Cerberus was biting our ankles. We decided to get up before dawn the following day and set off as early as possible so as to beat the heat. The rest of the morning we lay in the shade, trying to keep cool and hoping for a good night’s sleep before our early start.

Then, at around noon, it occurred to us that they had only gone so far in dismantling the stage and seating areas, and we realised what was going on. They were setting up for another party. Our hearts were ready to sink. But there was something different about this one, and as it dawned on us, we breathed huge sighs of relief. This one was to be a Turkish party. Much better. And we were going to be able to get some sleep!

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A Day at the Beach

Almost but not quite shielded from view by the rays of sunlight reflected by the glassy sea, the woman in pink bent over and stroked the chest of her man under his blue Berghaus T-shirt, neck bent double, his jaw, in profile, showing just softly the movements of his tongue, and of the closing, opening, closing of the space in between the insides of their two wet mouths. Beyond and behind them the waves crashed immensely onto the steep rich bank of pebble, sending showers of salt-white sea up into the low sky with each arhythmic thrum and drum, thrumming mightily the broken earth.

Further along the beach, a group arrived. Not large, perhaps six or seven. Mostly young men. Juveniles––with a fully-fledged adult as their leader––each of which walked like a different kind of animal: stalk, flamingo, moose. As soon as they reached the top of the bank, the man at their helm, definitely a Bertie, stripped down to a pair of tight bathing briefs and looked meaningfully at the water, sensing in the danger it posed an opportunity to teach his unworldly and betrousered retinue a vague lesson about bulls, horns and grabbing.

At the northern corner of the beach, a sandbank dulled the power of the waves such that they broke less violently. And there, enjoyng the seclusion of an artificial dune, were a young woman and her elderly grandmother, or an elderly woman and her adult granddaughter, sunning themselves in resplendent toplessness and giggling over a bowl of olives. The elder, white-haired and white-skinned, wore dark sunglasses. Her tummy and pendulous breasts shone palely in the mid afternoon sun as the pair sat and laughed on a blanket of light blue, before it was decided that they, too, would approach the water.

The younger of the two plunged in, dolphinlike, cheered on by her companion, was lost momentarily beneath the warm glint and ripple of the Mediterranean, and reappeared with a soft whoop, pushing the saltwater from her eyes and blinking in the sunlight. She hurried out and the twosome returned to their blanket, whereupon the younger, again, receiving a phonecall and deciding to take it standing, strolled directionlessly on the soft sand of the dune. Applying lotion with one hand and holding the phone in the other, her brown skin glistened with reflected sun.

Meanwhile, further south, a bald man was recording a video: the spectacle of wave crash; wearing thick black knee-length shorts and very sporty sunglasses, he eyed the blue depths with caution, perhaps even reverence. He had on his shoulder a tattoo of a cross, small but ornate. The water intimidated him, and so, or perhaps to avoid a bout of vertigo, he lay on his front at the top of the bank, safely distanced, with his camera held before him. The man in briefs, however, our Hero (or, at least, champion and guardian of that there posse), he strode down the bank like a soldier on parade, entering at a sharp angle water that had been encroaching and exploding steadily since noon.

We furrowed our brows. The stage was set.

It was, however, at this moment that Martine, Jean-Claude, Jean-Pierre and Marianne entered the scene, or the beach, from the south side, and in that order. Except, before long, their foursome was disarranged: Jean-Claude and Marianne both stopped to take off their shoes, filled as they were with sand, rendering them Martine, Jean-Pierre, Jean-Claude and Marianne, and Jean-Pierre, now finding himself walking ahead with Martine and oh too well aware of the fact they hadn’t anything to talk about and tended, when they did find themselves together, towards uncomfortable, thumb-picking silence, well, Jean-Pierre paused too, to squint at a parapet above a clocktower that overlooked the bay, feigning interest in a tidbit of local architecture.

Had she noticed this performance, Martine would have seen through it at once: Jean-Pierre cares about nothing, least of all architecture. But she was oblivious to it all and marched on, holding her too-large hat onto her head against the persistent easterly wind.

Equally oblivious was she to encroachment of the water upon the land, or at least to the irregular way in which it lunged and receded, never revealing until the last moment quite how far up the bank its tentacles would spread. She was therefore surprised to find one such tentacle had sucked off her sandal, and let out an impassioned shriek. She pointed wildly at the water, accusing it with her most French finger, while her compatriots came up alongside her. Jean-Claude, dutiful Jean-Claude, stood next to his wife and followed the imaginary line from her outstretched hand to the sea and, seeing nothing, stared for too long. The abyss had reached him. Another wave. It soaked him up to the groin, and shrieking Martine’s thighs.

Jean-Pierre and Marianne, a few steps higher, smiled listlessly, almost without using any muscles at all, as Jean-Claude ran up towards them. But Martine kept on staring, and Jean-Pierre, feeling responsible for the loss of the shoe, as if he ought to have been there to warn Martine of the tricksiness of saltwater, decided to do what he thought must be the right thing.

Red shirt billowing in the wind, he handed his tote bag to his wife, and stepped down to meet Martine. She frowned at him, ever confused, but took a step or two back up the bank. And it was in this formation that the quartet stood for some minutes: Jean-Pierre, longish hair buffeted constantly by the wind, looking blankly at the water in the hope that the accursed sandal might at some point reappear; Martine, watching him watch the water, somehow tenaciously nonplussed; and Jean-Claude and Marianne, also not knowing exactly what they should say to each other, rearranging the bags between them so as not to get anything sandy, agreeing to eat a grape or two, or perhaps a shade of camembert while waiting for whatever was supposed to happen to happen.

But before any of us had time to make any sort of meaningful predictions about how the Jean-Pierre and Martine saga would unfold, bold Bertie dived headlong into the sparkling torment. His black and tan briefs showed just momentarily above the water’s surface before disappearing again, and he popped up for air a short way out, exclaiming triumphantly. His boys cheered, but all along the beach, eyebrows were raising: a large breaker loomed behind yon Bertolt, who seemed caught unawares.

Then, at the last second, he leapt up, angled his body in the appropriate way, and vanished beneath the blue-white surface, emerging like a seal puppy on his belly, having ridden or ‘surfed’ the wave on his front and crashing, probably quite painfully, onto the wet sand. But he was undeterred, and went in for more. Those of us watching became one, tantalised by this spectacle. The bull, horns well and truly grasped, barely moved.

One of Bertie’s boys had taken out his phone and was recording the stunt on his camera. The rest of us were doing the mental equivalent. We were at the circus. Suddenly there was something to look at. And boy did he give us a show. Time after time he went into the silvery rush while Poseidon foamed and spat in whorls around him. And each time more triumphant than the last, beaming from ear to ear, he would reappear in the shallows.

He frolicked and played, jumping like a flying fish from the shallows back into the deep with apparently boundless energy, but what seemed most remarkable of all was his complete lack of self-consciousness. He we were, a dozen or so strangers, all doing nothing save or watching him, and there he was, the only thing happening in our entire field of vision, and not once did he look at us. He was like an actor, acting, or a wild animal. Or, I suppose, a regular human.

Up behind their dune, the two women ate their olives and drank their wine until they had had enough, and sidled caravanwards. Martine, Jean-Claude, Jean-Pierre and Marianne had settled by now into a picnic of the Corsican persuasion: wine, cheeses and almond biscuits with fig. The couple, closer to me, were still engaged in their subtle act of foreplay, juxtaposing, for those with the vantage, the promise of carnal delights with the possibility of roaring, awkward death. The bald man was still recording the space where he had been, although it was hard to tell if he was doing it with any degree of concentration. He was like a puppet abandoned by its hand, unable to move.

I don’t know who noticed first––one of Bertie’s younglings or a menber of the audience at large. Someone tapped the arm of their companion. ‘Look,’ as if to say, ‘he’s gone.’ Just like that. All it took was a blink of an eye, a momentary lapse of attention. There was no sign. It was uncanny.

A flurry of agitation overcame the boys, but not knowing what to do with it, and feeling watched by those of us who were still hanging around, they only talked among themselves. One approached the water with tentative steps but scurried back as soon as it touched his foot. The others mostly stared and played with their thumbs.

The sea calmed down after that, and as the sun began to set, his limp body reemerged, caught in an eddy, periodically rising, waving and smashing into the red rocks, painting them a more vibrant hue than the mixture of iron oxide and potassium feldspar that gives them their colour. The bald man had stopped recording by this time; he might have returned to his camper van stationed on the municipal campground not far from the beach. He might even be enjoying a cool glass of Vermentino, or else tucking into moules mariniere at a nearby restaurant. The intimate couple might, it’s true, be deep into their postcoital daze, hazily murmuring nothings into each other’s blood-flushed ears. I drank imported German lager while the sun went down, having cheersed with a woman sat a few metres from me, who was oblivious to the afternoon’s drama.

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